Wall-Mounted SEG Fabric Frames

Depth changes how the frame reads on the wall rather than how the graphic prints. A 20mm or 40mm profile sits almost flush and suits a busy office wall or a corridor where you do not want the panel projecting into the space. The 80mm, 100mm and 120mm profiles cast a deliberate shadow line and give a large graphic visual weight, so they hold their own on a tall reception wall where a slim frame would look lost. As a rule, the bigger the panel and the further away the viewer, the deeper the profile should be.

The frame fixes through the extrusion, so the substrate decides the fixing. Masonry and concrete take standard wall plugs without difficulty. Plasterboard does not: use proper hollow-wall anchors, and for the wider or deeper frames locate the studs and fix into them, because a partition wall will eventually work loose around undersized fixings. Mark and check level across the full width before drilling, since a frame with a dead-straight silicone edge shows a slope far more obviously than a picture frame ever does.

Yes, and it is the main reason to buy one. The printed fabric pulls out of the recessed channel by hand and a replacement pushes straight back in, so a seasonal campaign or a rebrand costs a fabric panel rather than new hardware. Start at a corner when removing a panel so you do not stretch one edge, and keep the old panel folded flat if you rotate campaigns through the year. Across a wall of frames the swap takes minutes and needs no tools.

Build the file to the finished panel size and add the bleed we specify, because the silicone strip is stitched into that allowance and the extrusion then covers the outermost few millimetres. Anything placed hard against the edge of the artwork will be lost in the channel, so keep logos, text and any border device inside a safe margin. Free artwork assistance and free 2D mockups are included, so you can check placement against the actual profile depth before printing. Email your files to support@backdropsource.co.uk.

A correctly sized panel does not sag, because the silicone edge holds the fabric under continuous tension inside the channel rather than relying on gravity. Slackness almost always means the panel was printed slightly oversize for the frame, or that one edge was fully seated before the others so tension is unevenly distributed. If a panel goes loose, take it out and refit corner to corner rather than tugging at the slack section. In a heated building the polyester also relaxes very slightly in the first day or two, then settles.

Yes, and multiple frames are usually better than one enormous panel: sections are easier to handle, easier to ship and cheaper to reprint when only part of the message changes. Decide first whether you want a deliberate gap between frames or the frames butted tight, then design the artwork accordingly, because a continuous image running across butted frames needs the join positions locked before printing. Set a level line for the whole run before you fix the first frame rather than working across from one end.

The panel is printed polyester and cleans with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Avoid solvents and never scrub, because dye-sublimated colour lives in the fibre but abrasion will still dull the surface finish. Let it dry completely before refitting, as a damp panel put back under tension can mark. For storage, fold rather than roll, keep it bagged away from dust and direct sunlight, and store panels flat rather than under heavy objects; any storage crease pulls out once the panel is tensioned again.

Your frame profile and the printed fabric panel ship together with free UK delivery on every order. Check the profile depth on arrival against what you ordered before you start drilling, since fixing positions and wall clearance differ considerably between a 20mm and a 120mm section. Every product is covered by a 1-year warranty. If anything looks unclear when you unpack, call +44 1628 904 188 rather than improvising a fixing you cannot easily undo.